personal

Great Falls National Park - Variable Neutral Density Filter Experiment

Wow, the past few weeks have been slammed busy for me, but I DID manage to squeeze in some personal shooting time (instead of spending the time blogging). I headed down to Great Falls National Park to test out a theory I had. A company called Singh-Ray makes a very expensive product called the Vari-ND filter ($350), which basically allows you to control how much light actually comes through the front of your lens. It doesn't effect color, depth of field or grain, and it doesn't directly effect shutter speed, but the reason why it is cool is that you can use much longer shutter speeds than you normally would be able to otherwise. A normal neutral density filter is just a dark piece of glass that reduces a fixed amount of light, the Singh-Ray filter allows you to adjust as needed. After watching the little animation on their site I said to myself... "that has to be through polarization!" so I decided to try and test my theory in order to save myself the $350. I tried two circular polarizers, but it didn't work as I expected, so I did a bit of research to discover that to make your own variable ND filter you need a circular polarizer and a LINEAR polarizer on top of the circular.

The circular polarizer on the bottom allows your autofocus camera to still autofocus and meter somewhat accurately because a circular polarizer is made of two layers, the top which polarizes the light and then the bottom layer that scatters the light a bit to allow your phase detection autofocus sensor to work properly.

I ordered myself a linear polarizer and gave it a good field test and it works great with one little caveat. If you stop the light down all the way as far as you can with this setup, there is a significant color shift to the blue spectrum. This effect is only seen if stopped down to 8 or 9 stops, which is rarely needed. I told a friend of mine about this issue and he's trying to come up with a solution that eliminates this color shift, but until then give it a go if you need to do some long exposures.

Here's some of my favorites from the two times I went down to Great Falls National Park this week. Most of these exposures were between 6 and 15 seconds long, which is what causes the normally rough looking water to look so creamy and smooth. None of these images have touched Photoshop, just some basic curves and white balance adjustment in Lightroom. If you want to do this yourself and already have a nice circular polarizer, all you'll need is a cheap linear polarizer and you're good to go!

The full rez gallery and other photos are at www.noahhayes.net/greatfalls


This shows you how rough this water looked without the long exposures! This was without the Variable ND filter. These guys kept climbing up the hill and riding the rapids down. Maybe I should get an underwater enclosure for my D3 and try it sometime?

Also we stumbled upon a little snake that was nice enough (or scared enough) to actually let me swap out my telephoto for a 105 VR Macro to get up close and personal (about 5 inches away from the front of my lens!)

The Variable ND array of B+W (my favorite) filters. Taken with iPhone 3GS

 

Smithsonian Shoot

The other day I went to hang out in DC and give a little hands-on training to a new photographer, Jermaine. I hadn't been to the Smithsonian in FOREVER, so we hit up the Natural History Museum to give him some challenging indoor light to get under control. After the museums closed (way too early if you ask me) we went out on the Mall and took some exterior shots of the other museums and the Capitol. Here's a couple from the day.


Little off camera flash for an environmental portrait of a new photog

This is a 15 second exposure, to make most of the crowd "disappear"

News Crew reporting on the Holocaust Museum shootings that day

Unfortunately the day we went was the day the shooting happened in the Holocaust Museum

Motorcycle: Speedlite Style

One of my friends just bought a motorcycle and since I had a few hours of downtime, we decided to go out and take some cool night-time photos of it. We really want to do some motion shots on the highway, but didn't want to risk causing an accident during a weekend night (I already had my flashes attached to the car with Justin clamps and everything before I even thought about the problems we might cause!)...maybe later this week we'll get around to it. Anyway, I just wanted to share some of my favorites from tonight along with some setup shots so you can see where light was coming from (didn't think of taking setup shots until about halfway through the shoot). Enjoy!

Unfortunately all I had on me to take set-up shots with was my iPhone...not exactly the best quality at 10PM with little to no good light! As you can see, I was using three speedlites: two SB800 flashes and one SB900. Two were triggered using Pocketwizards and the other triggered by SU-4 mode on the SB800. All the flashes had different powers of CTO (Color Temperature Orange) gels and the camera was set on Tungsten white balance. This gives a nice gradient of different shades of normal to cool tones, which work well for glossy metal.

 

When taking pictures on shiny metal objects (like cars and bikes) make sure to place your flash where you won't get a direct reflection...except maybe on chrome accents